Thinking about adding a retinol to your skincare routine? Or maybe like many, you've found that retinols irritate your skin and cause redness and sensitivity (not a vibe).
‘Retinol sandwiching’ is making the rounds on TikTok as one of the latest skincare trends to try, though it's a tried and tested technique when it comes to using retinoids – essentially, it means buffering your product with a little moisturiser, in order to minimise some of the less-than pleasant side effects of retinol.
ICYMI: retinol is a form of retinoid (a derivative of vitamin A), loved by dermatologists and skin experts for its skin-smoothing effects as well as treating things like acne and pigmentation. Generally, retinols are a more tolerable form of vitamin A – there are also prescription-strength versions , such as Tretinoin, which are much stronger.
The reason that retinols are well known for causing redness, flaking and sensitivity is because, well, they commonly do. Essentially, retinol encourages faster skin cell turnover and therefore can cause skin ‘shedding’ – revealing smoother, glowing skin underneath. But in the meantime, the skin can feel a little irritated and red while it's getting used to it.
There are many ways you can try to reduce irritation from retinol, from starting with a minimal strength product to building up your tolerance, first by just applying it just once a week – but you could give retinol sandwiching a try, too.
How does retinol sandwiching work?
The technique involves layering your retinol between your favourite light moisturiser. “If you're new to retinol or have particularly sensitised skin, it can cause a little too much exfoliation at first, leaving the skin red and tender - imagine you've overdone it with a harsh scrub. Buffering retinol with a layer of moisturiser first can slow down any reactions,” says dermatologist Dr Rayhaneh Zahedi. Of the second layer of moisturiser, she adds: “Applying a layer after can help lock in moisture and help prevent the dryness associated with a new retinol routine.”
She does add, however, that the results may not be as powerful. “If you have sensitive skin, want to focus on barrier protection, or are new to retinol, sandwiching can be a great way to introduce or keep retinol in your routine”, she says. “But if you have resilient skin or want to focus on invigorating your skin, applying retinol directly to clean, exfoliated skin is the way to go.”
Dr Zahedi's retinol of choice is AlumierMD's Retinol Resurfacing Serum, which contains anti-inflammatories such as niacinamide and sodium hyaluronate – she adds that she would even recommend it for those with sensitive skin types.
How to try retinol sandwiching
It's pretty simple – apply your chosen retinol between two layers of your go-to moisturiser – but there are some different tricks you can apply depending on the result you want.
“The amount of moisturiser you apply will impact the outcome,” says Dr Zahedi. “Keep it thin if you want to focus on results, and thick if you want to play it safe and slow things down.”
She adds that you should stick to moisturiser, rather than a balm or oil. “Applying oil on the skin may prevent penetration of the retinol altogether.” Don't forget to apply your sunscreen, too, since retinols can make the skin more susceptible to UV damage.
Other derms have weighed in on the technique on TikTok, too. Dr Whitney Bowe suggests only applying your moisturiser to areas where you get particularly irritated, such as beneath the eyes, around the smile lines, chin and neck area:
Should I really use retinol if I have sensitive skin?
According to Dr Salome Dharamshi, dermatologist and founder of SKY Clinic, there's no reason you can't try a gentle retinoid if you have sensitive or reactive skin – but it's important to start slow. “In terms of ingredients, retinyl palmitate is one of the most gentle retinoids – products infused with this vitamin A derivative may be a good place to start,” she says.
“Sensitive skin types can use retinol - the important thing is to start using a low % concentration to build skin tolerance, which can be increased gradually.” As for her favourite gentle high street buys: “La Roche-Posay’s Retinol Face Serum with Vitamin B3 – and in terms of a night cream, I love Olay’s Regenerist Retinol24 Night Moisturiser.”
However, if you simply find that retinol isn't for you, there are other solutions. “Retinol is a fantastic ingredient in reducing the signs of ageing and improving the appearance of acne-prone skin, but it isn’t suitable for everyone,” she adds. “There are alternative solutions and skincare ingredients that can work together to achieve similar results, in a more skin-friendly manner.”
And if you fall into any of these categories, Dr Dharamshi suggests you pass on retinol all together. “I wouldn’t recommend retinol to those with hypersensitive skin [i.e. if you experience pain, rashes, or extreme sensitivity] to those who spend prolonged periods of time under direct sunlight, to anyone with pre-existing skin conditions (think rosacea, psoriasis, eczema), those prone to allergic reactions or food intolerances and / or to young people who simply don’t need to be using this ingredient yet.”
Her final word – retinol involves management of the skin; you can't just slap it on. “I also wouldn’t recommend retinol to anyone unaware of the importance of their lifestyle choices and commitment to a thorough skincare regime when utilising this potent ingredient,” she says. “Many people don’t realise that using retinol in your skincare regime requires tweaks to the product line-up you reach for on a daily basis – for example, you should avoid using exfoliators the day before you use retinol – and once you’ve introduced this ingredient to your regime, it’s more important than ever to wear SPF daily; to protect your skin from sun damage.”
